Last night a father and daughter from Frankfurt came into the place I was straying and also a Swiss man. During dinner The German got going on the fact that Germany has troops in Afghanastan even when they are not supposed to be doing any fighting. He was absolutely strident about his opposition to any war. He kept saying that with Germany`s history in the first 1/2 of the 20th century they should absolutely not be anywhere near a war. The Swiss man seemed to me to be a professionsl pilgrim. He is a youngish man who is somehow on a disability pension. This is his 5th time walking the Camino. He has walked every Way that I have read about. High fat dinner again.
There was no rain today which was a blessing! I walked about 21 km over mostly flat but sometimes rooling landscape. The weather has been so cold and wet here this year that the corn which is supposed to be about 4 feet high now is about 8 inches high. The farmers and the walkers are tired of this cold weather. TV says one thing and the newspapers say another about the weather here tomorrow. I go with the TV! No rain!
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Monday, May 28, 2007
05/28/07 LASSERRRE-DE-HAUT
This morning I woke up early and ate early which was nice. Got ready for on the road --- it was raining. Put on all of the rain gear and headed out. I was able to stay dry in spite of the rain and the wind, even my feet, until I came to an old Roman bridge which obviously was not designed for this particular 1000 year rain storm. Water was flowing on both sides of the very dry bridge apex. Thus my feet got soaked and I slogged along. There probably was another way to go around the bridge but I am very tentative about straying from the path. If I got seriously lost with my non existent French I might end an undocumented worker somewhere in France for ever. I am in a nice place out in the country, dry and a happy camper. Now I wait for the telephone conversation with Mary. Getting pretty good on the French keyboard.
05/27/07 Condom
As the Way had been drenched the day before I decided to walk down the road to Condom. It was a little shorter and I did not have to ski in the mud. Got there by 11:00 and found my Gite and had a room with 2 French men. The town was closing down for holiday on Monday. Slept well in spite of all the strange bodies in the room with me. All mistakes are to be attributed to a French keyboard. Many keys are in very different places
Sunday, May 27, 2007
5/27/2007 Scottsdale
This is Mary instead of Doug. He had trouble getting his blog to post so he emailed it to me and I posted it. In the translation, we got the odd spacing. Sorry!
o5/26/07 La Romieu
At dinner on the 25th at Mme. Souviron there was a bicycling couple
from northern France. She, Anne Pons is an Environmental Manager for
the largest steel company in France. He, Benoit Renouf, is a
pharmacist. Interestingly, the law allows 1 pharmacy for every 2500
people in the area. Count the pharmacies and one knows approximately
what the population is. They were both very nice to me and helped me
do bookings as well as offered to help in the future with their cell
number at my disposal. I surely do appreciate all the help the French
people here have been willing to give me. With my French, I need it
of course.
I started in a fairly heavy rain for La Remieu with my backpack
raincoat on as well as the slicker. It poured and then the wind began
to howel making the rain come at about 45 degrees. Then the dirt got
very sticky and slick. Oh, this was not fun. I stopped a couple time
in farmers shed but it was only a postponement. The mud got so slick
that I had to push myself up the slopes with my trecking poles because
there was absolutely no traction. Finally after about two hours of
this the wind slowed down and the rain began to slacken. By this time
my boots were soaked through and through as well as lots of me. I had
a couple of things which were not in plastic bags but that will not
happen again. Anyway, finally through the decreasing rain appeared the
quite wonderful cathedral in La Romieu. I went into the town to the
tourist office, had my p. passport stamped, and then found my room.
The landlord allowed me to put my boots next to his stove and gave me a
beer. His wife put my socks in the drier and life began to look
somewhat better. Then the guy who gave me the hat showed up in a
similar shape and he had the room downstairs in the little dorm. He,
Alain Simon, and I had dinner together and then sleep time. I am
spending a lot of time worrying about where I am going to sleep a week
from now as they allow people to make reservations here in La Romieu
all the good places tend to fill up early. The week ends are the worst
of course.
from northern France. She, Anne Pons is an Environmental Manager for
the largest steel company in France. He, Benoit Renouf, is a
pharmacist. Interestingly, the law allows 1 pharmacy for every 2500
people in the area. Count the pharmacies and one knows approximately
what the population is. They were both very nice to me and helped me
do bookings as well as offered to help in the future with their cell
number at my disposal. I surely do appreciate all the help the French
people here have been willing to give me. With my French, I need it
of course.
I started in a fairly heavy rain for La Remieu with my backpack
raincoat on as well as the slicker. It poured and then the wind began
to howel making the rain come at about 45 degrees. Then the dirt got
very sticky and slick. Oh, this was not fun. I stopped a couple time
in farmers shed but it was only a postponement. The mud got so slick
that I had to push myself up the slopes with my trecking poles because
there was absolutely no traction. Finally after about two hours of
this the wind slowed down and the rain began to slacken. By this time
my boots were soaked through and through as well as lots of me. I had
a couple of things which were not in plastic bags but that will not
happen again. Anyway, finally through the decreasing rain appeared the
quite wonderful cathedral in La Romieu. I went into the town to the
tourist office, had my p. passport stamped, and then found my room.
The landlord allowed me to put my boots next to his stove and gave me a
beer. His wife put my socks in the drier and life began to look
somewhat better. Then the guy who gave me the hat showed up in a
similar shape and he had the room downstairs in the little dorm. He,
Alain Simon, and I had dinner together and then sleep time. I am
spending a lot of time worrying about where I am going to sleep a week
from now as they allow people to make reservations here in La Romieu
all the good places tend to fill up early. The week ends are the worst
of course.
Friday, May 25, 2007
05/25/07 LECTOURE #2
The room in Auvillar was wonderful and there was also a French-Canadian there. We each used the shower and washed clothes. We were staying demi-pension which means that we got dinner and breakfast. When we went down for dinner the Canadian recognized someone and the three of us ate together. The other guy, Axel, spoke French but also English so most of the conversation was in English which was nice of them as it made it possible for me to understand. They both had started in Le Puy and they were full of horror stories of how hard that walk was and how easy the walk along the canal was. It was very amusing and they gave me a lot of information. One thing I had already learned was that one wants to take LOTS of water with them. There is no guarentee (remember what I said about no spell checker!) that there was a little store in a village or whether the store would be open. The dinner was wonderful. We sat out on a patio with a tree shading us and the food was great. I went to bed and actually slept a little bit better as I was slowly beginning to get onto French time. Got up the next morning, had breakfast and then after packing, this is where I realized that the pillow was no longer with me, I hit the road. Benoit (I think that is how one would spell it) was already on the road well before me. It was 9:30 by the time I started and as it got warmer I promised myself that I would not do that again. Very nice up and down walk which ended up at Miradoux. Again it is up on a hill. While walking around town I ran into the guys from the night before and Axel, 56 year old chain smoker from Norway, was staying at the same little place I was staying at. We had another fat/proten filled meal and into bed. Breakfast was waiting for us at 6:30, we ate and the Axel and I headed off for Lectoure. Lectoure is up on another hill, and a steep one at that. I am staying with an older woman who rents out a room and from the smell of it is going to provide me with a great meal. She has 9 grandchildren. Axel went his own way and is sleeping somewhere else.
Anyway, the only thing I miss is the hat. The pillow would have been nice, but it took up a lot of room int he back pack. Anyway, last night when we were eating there was a French guy at our table and I mentioned that the hat I had bought was a piece of junk. He immeditely offered me a hat which was an extra one that he had carried with him. He is about done for this part of his journey and must work for the summer before he can come back and do the rest of the route. Anyway, he wanted to give it to me and although I though it was not all that good I took it and wore it today. AND, it is a wonderful hat especially in the rain today. Fortunately I saw him in town about an hour ago and was able to really thank him properly. So, I am back with a good hat. I will try to put a picture on next time I find an internet connection.
Anyway, the only thing I miss is the hat. The pillow would have been nice, but it took up a lot of room int he back pack. Anyway, last night when we were eating there was a French guy at our table and I mentioned that the hat I had bought was a piece of junk. He immeditely offered me a hat which was an extra one that he had carried with him. He is about done for this part of his journey and must work for the summer before he can come back and do the rest of the route. Anyway, he wanted to give it to me and although I though it was not all that good I took it and wore it today. AND, it is a wonderful hat especially in the rain today. Fortunately I saw him in town about an hour ago and was able to really thank him properly. So, I am back with a good hat. I will try to put a picture on next time I find an internet connection.
05/25/07 IN LECTOURE
Absolutely first I have to thank Mary a thousnad times for all the support. When everything was going wrong she gave me more courage than she wil ever know. That cell phone which I have here was a lifesaver!
I probably should label this how I lost my hat, threw away my sleeping pad and forgot my pillow. On the train from Paris I changed seats because ther was a very strange person and to make a long story short, when I got off the train I did not have the hat on my head. I realized it almost right away and went to the station master who called the train and they searched for it but it was gone. Nothing to do. From then on every decision I made in trying to replace the hat was a poor one. Finally I got a lousy hat for way too much money and then got on the train to Moissac which is where I decided to start instead of Le Puy. There were cops and conductors all over the place on this little milk run train. WHAT! Anyway the group finally picked a teenage girl who they took between the cars and talked with her, searched her bag, etc. and then they all got off together at the next stop. The girl had that special look of the age. So I got to Moissac and took a cab to the place where I was to stay. The place smelled a little smoky but I didn't think much about it. Well, the place smelled of smoke and I sneezed and wheezed all night. By the time I got up I had decided to abandon my sleeping mat which weighed about 3 lbs. Then the owner's little boy came in with a picture and was determined to explain it to me. So, with all of that I checked under the bed and around the bed but I must have failed to check on the bed because that night I ended up without my little pillow. Then I left the house and went down to the tourist office, produced my pilgrim's passport and had it stamped. I was on my way!! Walked down to the canal, crossed the bridge and headed west. I must admit that I was very excited that finally it had started considering the day before was a -1 on a scale of 1 to 10. I only got lost once but when I got back on the right trail I got talking with a group of French people who come together every year and walk a little ways. They showed me how to make sure not to miss the way markers and were very nice. Actually with a few small exceptions all the people here in France have been wonderful to me. Always nice. So I kept going and then some 20+ kilometers later up on the hill ahead of me was the town of Auvillar. Up on the hill are the operative words here. Went to the tourist office (I am typing in one right now), got my p. passport stamped (this was the second one!!!) and they showed me where I had my reservation.
I probably should label this how I lost my hat, threw away my sleeping pad and forgot my pillow. On the train from Paris I changed seats because ther was a very strange person and to make a long story short, when I got off the train I did not have the hat on my head. I realized it almost right away and went to the station master who called the train and they searched for it but it was gone. Nothing to do. From then on every decision I made in trying to replace the hat was a poor one. Finally I got a lousy hat for way too much money and then got on the train to Moissac which is where I decided to start instead of Le Puy. There were cops and conductors all over the place on this little milk run train. WHAT! Anyway the group finally picked a teenage girl who they took between the cars and talked with her, searched her bag, etc. and then they all got off together at the next stop. The girl had that special look of the age. So I got to Moissac and took a cab to the place where I was to stay. The place smelled a little smoky but I didn't think much about it. Well, the place smelled of smoke and I sneezed and wheezed all night. By the time I got up I had decided to abandon my sleeping mat which weighed about 3 lbs. Then the owner's little boy came in with a picture and was determined to explain it to me. So, with all of that I checked under the bed and around the bed but I must have failed to check on the bed because that night I ended up without my little pillow. Then I left the house and went down to the tourist office, produced my pilgrim's passport and had it stamped. I was on my way!! Walked down to the canal, crossed the bridge and headed west. I must admit that I was very excited that finally it had started considering the day before was a -1 on a scale of 1 to 10. I only got lost once but when I got back on the right trail I got talking with a group of French people who come together every year and walk a little ways. They showed me how to make sure not to miss the way markers and were very nice. Actually with a few small exceptions all the people here in France have been wonderful to me. Always nice. So I kept going and then some 20+ kilometers later up on the hill ahead of me was the town of Auvillar. Up on the hill are the operative words here. Went to the tourist office (I am typing in one right now), got my p. passport stamped (this was the second one!!!) and they showed me where I had my reservation.
Monday, May 21, 2007
05/21/07 in Paris
Left Saturday evening on British Air. We were late from the start and then late from there on until I arrived in Paris Sunday evening about 7:30. The phone activated wonderfully and I was able to use it without a hitch. The hotel is 2 star and acts like it is 1/2 star but it is a place to sleep and use as a base. The night person is nice and helpful but the day lady is less than helpfull as she wants only to read her Koran. Talking about multi-racial! Well, they have it here to the max. and it certainly seems to work well at least in this section of town. It is wonderful to see people of different races mingling without any not so hidden agendas.
If the spelling and grammer goes south from here on out; well that is what happens when I don't have a spell checker and extra time to go over the writings.
As Dusty, the one who could carry a 50 pound pack, has appropriately decided not to come with me and my back is getting a little iffy I have decided to make a change in the plan and cut off 430 kilometers from the start place. So, naturally I have to leave from a different train station after I picked this hotel to be right next to Gare de Lyon. Now I am going out at 6:10 tomorrow morning from Gare Montparnasse. I have run back and forth on the metro between the train stations a couple of times but as the metro does not open until 5:30 I am not sure that is the way to get there in 40 minutes. I ran it in 25 minutes this last time now that I know the way, but who knows how it will be in the morning. I hope that the night desk person will know when the taxis start at the train station. Sure hope that I can go to sleep tonight so that I am on Paris time tomorrow morning.
If the spelling and grammer goes south from here on out; well that is what happens when I don't have a spell checker and extra time to go over the writings.
As Dusty, the one who could carry a 50 pound pack, has appropriately decided not to come with me and my back is getting a little iffy I have decided to make a change in the plan and cut off 430 kilometers from the start place. So, naturally I have to leave from a different train station after I picked this hotel to be right next to Gare de Lyon. Now I am going out at 6:10 tomorrow morning from Gare Montparnasse. I have run back and forth on the metro between the train stations a couple of times but as the metro does not open until 5:30 I am not sure that is the way to get there in 40 minutes. I ran it in 25 minutes this last time now that I know the way, but who knows how it will be in the morning. I hope that the night desk person will know when the taxis start at the train station. Sure hope that I can go to sleep tonight so that I am on Paris time tomorrow morning.
Thursday, May 17, 2007
05/17/07 MELTDOWN TIME
I am so overloaded it's almost meltdown time. I'm the worse, but Mary is also stressed to the max. It seems like one thing after the other to be solved. A couple of days ago I walked in full outfit pushing hard with the trekking poles. It felt so good and I felt strong but when I got home my back began to cramp and next my back started hurting like I was starting a new bout of bad lower back/buttocks/leg pain. I began stretching all parts of my back and legs like a crazy man to keep ahead of it and I have been fighting it ever since. I got a deep tissue massage from a very good lady on Wednesday. Now we are all about stretching and stretching. Got to stay ahead of it. Have another message Saturday morning before I fly in the evening.
Today we put the pack together in the final configuration and then after weighting it we started taking it apart and throwing things out. Third pair of pants, 3rd shirt, 3rd set of underclothes, and more, all are gone! Then I went looking for my puffer which I am sure I saw recently. Obviously I don't use it much any more but I want it for insurance. Gone! The doctor's office is not open tomorrow; run around and melt down time. But we have a Dr. friend here at LV who was willing to get me one. Trying to relax, stretching out and keeping my emotional self under control. Nice thing of being older is that I know that each new crisis will also pass and be solved. But, the nights are getting longer.
Today we put the pack together in the final configuration and then after weighting it we started taking it apart and throwing things out. Third pair of pants, 3rd shirt, 3rd set of underclothes, and more, all are gone! Then I went looking for my puffer which I am sure I saw recently. Obviously I don't use it much any more but I want it for insurance. Gone! The doctor's office is not open tomorrow; run around and melt down time. But we have a Dr. friend here at LV who was willing to get me one. Trying to relax, stretching out and keeping my emotional self under control. Nice thing of being older is that I know that each new crisis will also pass and be solved. But, the nights are getting longer.
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
5/15/07 IN TRAINING
Here are all the parts. Hat with Guernica peace pin; hearing aids, all the better to hear you with my dear; glasses, all the better to see you with my dear; teeth, all my own to be used to bite the infamous camino dogs on their rears; backpack with too much weight; treking poles which use muscles one never believed they had but keep you vertical; and the right knee brace to make sure I don't make an ill conceived motion with that leg. Of course there are the pills, for the heart, and aches and pains; water at all times and a few clothes But, I am almost ready to go.
I hope to post to this blog regularly as long as I am walking on the Camino. That will depend on how my body holds up. If you google 'Saint James Way' you will find out more information than you ever hoped to know about this pilgrimage. I am starting at Le Puy, France and hope to make it all the way to the ocean at Finisterre, Spain.
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